and a big family, to travel across the Balkans, a land of young coun­tries, local cheese and small cars. Our first stop was Athens, Greece, where my husband, Ben, waited 30 minutes for me to clear foreign [...] cool white houses and bright blue waters of the isles, but we were not without company as naked Germans and baked-brown Scandinavians basked with us on the beaches. Free from a daily schedule for the first